Backpacking in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Michigan
Quick View Itinerary
Distance: 26.5 miles, point to point
Time: 3 days, 3 nights
Difficulty: Moderate (3/5)
Highest Elevation: 864 ft
Ascent: 4,414 ft
Descent: 4,423 ft
Day 1: Sevenmile Campsite to Coves Group Campsite ~ 8.3 miles
Day 2: Coves Campsite to Potato Patch Campsite ~ 9.78 miles
Day 3: Potato Patch Campsite to Munising Falls Parking Area ~ 8.42 miles
Good to Know
The cliffs in Pictured Rocks are dangerous, and the weather can be unpredictable. Pack accordingly, and use caution at the cliff’s edge, especially in high winds.
You’ll have to park a vehicle at the Munising Falls Visitor Center, then ride the free shuttle to your starting point. Details on the shuttle service can be found here: https://www.nps.gov/piro/planyourvisit/shuttle-service.htm
A backcountry camping permit is required for all overnight stays in the backcountry, year-round. The permit is only for the dates, locations, and party size specified. Permits must be obtained via www.recreation.gov. or by calling: 1-877-444-6777.
Insects such as black flies, mosquitoes, and biting stable flies can be a nuisance between late May and September. Stable flies can be relentless and aggressive along the shore on hot, humid days with a south wind. Insect repellent does NOT work on them and they can make your hike a misery. They tend to target hiker legs and ankles, so bring along long, loose-fitting pants and thick socks in case you need them.
Review the Pictured Rocks backpacking page - https://www.nps.gov/piro/planyourvisit/backcountry.htm - and the backpacking trip planner - https://www.nps.gov/piro/planyourvisit/upload/BackcountryPlannerUpdate2020-final-accessible.pdf - for further information on planning your trip.
Day 1 - Sevenmile Campsite to Coves Campsite ~ 8.3 miles
We awoke in the pitch black of early morning to the sound of a light drizzle tapping on our tent. If I didn’t have to climb out of my cozy sleeping bag, I would have found it extremely peaceful….even despite that, I found it extremely peaceful. For the five minutes I got to lay in my sleeping bag, at least. On this cold, rainy morning we would be starting our three day hike of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Pictured Rocks is a stunning national park that runs along the coast of Lake Superior in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. When it comes to scenery, Pictured Rocks has it all - hiking trails, a variety of trees and wildlife, waterfalls, beaches, a Great Lake; and of course, we can’t forget the looming cliffs that rise hundreds of feet up above the blue waters.
Our hike took us along most of the distance that follows Lake Superior in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. We started at Twelvemile campground and would be making our way to the end of the trail at the Munising Falls visitor center. The North Country Trail, which runs over 4600 miles through eight states, follows along Lake Superior through the federally managed land for over 40 miles.
There is a shuttle service that starts at the Munising Falls visitor center each morning; it picks up at 8:00 am and drops off hikers and their respective starting points. This is a great service available to those who choose to take only one car to their starting point. It’s also why my deep sleep was disturbed and why I was so rudely evicted from my warm sleeping bag. You have to make reservations, so if you decide to go that route, don’t forget to call ahead of time. After driving 30 minutes through the mist and riding (sleeping) on the shuttle for another 45, I arrived back at the campsite, where the girls were hard at work breaking down camp and cooking me a hot breakfast…not. They were still in bed when I lumbered up through the continued drizzle to our site. I can’t blame them - I would have done the same thing if I hadn’t drawn the short straw. After emitting what I am sure were extremely positive mumbles and grumbles, they rolled out of their tents and begun the packing up process that backpackers and campers are all too familiar with.
The rain let up as we started to hike and we shed our rain gear in favor of short sleeves. Prior to visiting Pictured Rocks I had seen many pictures of exactly that - rocks. Huge cliffs reaching up hundreds of feet above the raging Mother Superior, her waves slamming into giant rock faces topped by sprawling trees. However, this first segment of trail surprised all of us. Instead of massive cliffs, the shoreline was made up of pristine beaches. Fine sand stretched as far as the eye could see. High winds off the lake blew in powerful waves, but if you closed your eyes and envisioned sunshine and calm waters, you could almost be somewhere on a beach in the Caribbean rather than the Northwoods of Michigan, sitting on the coastline of one of the largest lakes in the world.
We stopped for lunch on one of these pristine beaches, then continued our way down the trail. As we continued southeast the shoreline became more and more dramatic and the flora began to change as well. The thin birches and pines gave way to larger, taller trees; with the raised canopy, the undergrowth had taken advantage of the extra space and done some expanding of its own. Stretches of huge ferns masked the ground from view. If we didn’t know better we could have easily been somewhere in the Pacific Northwest on the shores of the ocean, in the midst of a rainforest. A silent testament to the wetness of the region were the myriad of mushrooms that grew ubiquitously. Each and every way you looked, the fungi had made their mark and claimed their territory.
Ten miles of hiking later we reached our first campsite, Coves. No other parties had arrived yet, so we had our pick of campsites, which is always a nice perk. The only source of water at the site was Lake Superior herself, which made for an interesting experience to start our night. Remember when I said that the high winds made the Lake look like an ocean? Well, that was still the case; powerful waves came in and battered the shoreline. It was impossible to stay dry and fill up our water reservoirs, so we gave in and stripped down to our underwear and waded out into the water. Walking into a 50 degree lake in 55 degree weather and 20 mph winds is one way to wake the mind up!
Our days in our modern lives seem to be filled with so much bustle and constant activity, especially in the modern era. We always need to be doing something, whether it’s working on a project around the house, reading a book, watching Netflix, or any other activity that we always have access to. One of my favorite things about backpacking is the release from that. Sure, you still have things that you need to do. But as you are doing them - putting one foot in front of the other, setting up camp, preparing food - you are completely focused on those tasks. Then, once they are done, there are down periods where you can just sit and exist. This can be unnerving at first, especially if you are someone who is highly proactive and results driven. We are programmed to believe that action is always good - and it is, most of the time. However, it’s also important to simply be. To be alone with your thoughts. To have nothing to focus your mind on. To let your thoughts wander to wherever they may go, until you are ready to call them back. Connecting with the self, the true self, is a reward that comes from disconnecting from external influences and opinions and examining who, and what, you are. Backpacking and spending time in nature (away from technology and other people) are a surefire way to build a connection with yourself.
Day 2 - Coves Campsite to Potato Patch ~ 9.78 miles
Nothing beats spending a morning lounging around, drinking coffee, enjoying the feeling of knowing you have to go somewhere, but it doesn’t really matter when you decide to go. We lounged around the campsite, extending our stay into mid morning. The rain from the previous day had blown off, and the weather was turning out to be perfect for a day of hiking. Eventually we finally packed up the campsite and set off towards our next campsite 11 miles away called Potato Patch. As we continued down the trail, the scenery grew more and more dramatic, finally culminating with hours of breathtaking views. For miles, the path led us along 200 foot tall cliffs with crystal clear spanning from the foot of the cliffs to as far as the eye could see. Waves smashed against the base of the rock faces like hammers pounding on a million nails. In certain places along the coast massive arches had been carved by countless years of erosion. We took our time, stopping to admire the view as often as we felt was necessary - which was a lot. When you see something like that, you feel insignificant in a beautiful way - it makes you realize some of the things society tells you to care about don’t truly matter, and that the only thing that is important is the natural world and the love of those around you. Those waves have been carrying out their motions for millions of years before we were here on earth, and they will continue to do so for millions of years after we depart. The timeless sound of water and wind gives you a small glimpse of what eternity might feel like.
In what seemed like perfect timing, we reached our home for the night. Once again, we repeated the familiar routine of setting up camp, changing out of our sweaty clothes, starting a fire, and cooking dinner. One thing that I always find myself wishing for after a long day of backpacking is a nice cold IPA. Alas, the desire to cut weight trumped my wish for alcohol, so my cold, refreshing beverage would have to wait one more night. One other thing that makes backpacking so rewarding (and challenging) is the fact that you have to do without so many things you are used to having at the snap of your fingers at home. Everything you need for your survival is carried on your back, which is a highly liberating and enthralling feeling; however, it also means you have to sacrifice some of your worldly comforts. We are incredibly lucky that we can have a hot meal or a cold drink whenever we wish. Spending time without these things - whether we are out backpacking or at home - makes you appreciate just how special the small things in life are. There’s nothing better than a cold beer or a steaming hot pizza after drinking water filtered from streams and eating dehydrated meals day after day. That strong appreciation for small things in life is only bolstered by foregoing them from time to time.
Day 3 - Potato Patch to Munising Falls Visitor Center ~ 8.42 miles
Following a night of rest we set off in the morning. Almost instantly we passed Miner’s Beach, which brought us back to those pristine sandy beaches that we had enjoyed two days prior. Unfortunately one of the members of our party had aggravated their ankle, rendering them unable to complete the final stretch of our planned hike. Fortunately, there was a parking lot that provided access to Miner’s Beach, so we set them up right on the beach to wait for us as we ventured forth to pick up the car and return to retrieve them. The sun was shining and the water was calm - they couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend the final day of a camping trip, even if it meant that they wouldn’t be able to experience the last part of our hike. However, it was a good reminder that injuries can and do happen on the trail. Be prepared with a first aid kit, and if you can, take a first aid course from a local accredited organization.
Leaving our third party member on the beach also meant that we could leave our packs there with them. Unburdened, we setoff for our car, which was parked at the end of the trail the Munising Falls Visitor Center. We made great time without our loads, completing our day’s hike in just around four hours. The trail was muddy but several beautiful waterfalls along the way made up for the messy trail. When we walked into the visitor center to shop for some well needed souvenirs (Stickers. Always stickers.) we ran into a friend that we had made the previous night at our campsite. She let us know that she had run into our companion on the beach, and that she was waiting for us at our car. There’s nothing more refreshing than being the recipient of unmitigated, unselfish assistance from someone who is a complete stranger. It makes you realize that there is good in the world and that you can be a part of that good each and every day.
From start to finish, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore was a true beauty. It’s a gem of the Midwest; places like these are the ones that we need to protect and cherish. They can refill your soul, give you a place to get away, and help you to reconnect with those you care about.
