Best Rock Climbing in Bozeman, Montana
Disclaimer: Rock climbing and mountaineering in general is a dangerous pastime that can lead to serious injury or worse. You should not undertake these without proper training or equipment.
By using this site you acknowledge that the information here is not a replacement for a professional guide, and Fantasium Media cannot be held liable for any damage or injury that may be caused by use of this website.
The incredible buttresses of Gallatin Canyon.
When you think of a climbing destination the first place that comes to mind isn’t generally Montana - the winters are long, summers are warm, and the mountain ranges remote. However, Bozeman is a gem of a climbing region, with classic cracks, killer sport lines, beautiful boulders, and huge multi-pitch lines abound. While finding the climbs can often be challenging, once you’ve located them you’re sure to have a day of climbing you won’t soon forget.
With quality rock and minimal crowds, routes around Bozeman can provide exceptional rock climbing at almost all times of the year. The best time to climb is May - October, but even in the winter some nice climbs can be found on warm days.
This article is focused on climbing that is within roughly an hour’s drive of Bozeman, usually shorter.
Let’s dive in and learn more about the climbing around Bozeman!
Guidebooks
There are several guidebooks that cover most of the areas around Bozeman. There’s lots of climbing that isn’t here or anywhere on the internet, so ask around and get to know your local climbing community!
These books can be found at Spire and REI, with the exception of Rock Climbs of Southwest Montana.
Bozeman Rock Climbs by Bill Dockins & Tom Kalakay
Rock Climbs of Southwest Montana by Kyle Vassilopoulos
SW MT Blocs by Erik Christensen
Select Alpine Climbs to Montana by Ron Brunckhorst
Rock Guides in Bozeman
Montana Alpine Guides and Montana Mountaineering Association are the premiere guides in Bozeman. If you’re looking to hone your skills, haven’t climbed in a while, or just want to find the best climbs, getting out with them for a day or two is a great way to do all of these!
Table of Contents
Access & Ethics
Southwest Montana Climber’s Coalition
The Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC) is an organization dedicated to securing, protecting, and improving climbing access in Southwest Montana. With a mission to preserve and enhance the climbing resources in the region, SMCC strives to ensure that climbers have the opportunity to explore and enjoy the vast array of climbing options available.
If you do climb near Bozeman, you should strongly consider donating to the SMCC. Your donations go to building trails, replacing hardware, securing climbing access, and more.
Climbing Ethics
The climbing near Bozeman could definitely be described as “old school” - tough grading, moderate runouts, and minimal beta can be the name of the game in many places. Usually if a line goes on gear or there are gear placements on parts of a climb, you won’t find bolts. All of these things make for better climbs and better climbs in my opinion!
Most routes have rap rings on them. Rappel off climbs when you can.
As for establishing new routes, most climbs in the area have been established from the ground up. There is definitely still tons of opportunity for development in the area. Never go altering an existing climb without first discussing those changes with the climb’s first ascender.
Camping
Most of the climbing near Bozeman is in National Forests, and dispersed camping is very easy to find. In Gallatin Canyon there are also very nice pay campgrounds scattered throughout the canyon, and if you’re in a van or RV street parking in Bozeman for a few nights is readily available.
Remember to practice Leave No Trace principles when you camp, and always use the installed toilet facilities if you can.
Access
As I mentioned above, most climbing is on National Forests and access is generally fairly straightforward. That being said, there are a few locations that abut private property (Allenspur in particular), so always be conscious of how lucky we are to access these climbing areas. Keep your pets under control, keep the areas clean, use established trails, keep music to a reasonable volume, etc. Let’s give the best impression of climbers that we can to ensure we can access these locations for years to come.
Safety
Best All Around Climbing - Gallatin Canyon
The stellar Sparerib.
Ahhh, Gallatin Canyon. What a special place! Home to every style of climbing imaginable, the climbing in Gallatin Canyon is varied enough in style and grade to keep you occupied for a lifetime of rock climbing. Hard lines, classic boulders, and fun multi-pitch romps make this the best place by far to climb near Bozeman. There are several different crags in the Canyon - my favorites are the Gallatin Tower and the routes on the East Side of the Gallatin River. The other areas are fun, but these two are absolutely classic and will have you grinning from ear to ear after each day here.
You’ll see the Gallatin mentioned in every other category as well - it’s so good that it deserves its own special mention. In the following categories I will outline specific areas that are great for each style of climbing.
Grades in the Gallatin can be a bit sandbagged - the Dockins & Kalakay guidebook states comedically that in the Gallatin, “instead of climbs being rated for the hardest move, they are rated for the easiest move”. That evaluation might not be too far off, but they are stellar climbs nonetheless so get out there and get on them!
Best Trad Climbing
Heading up the fun 2nd pitch of Watchtower Direct.
Gallatin Canyon
The trad climbing in the Gallatin is unbeatable. The gear can be tricky at first with flaring cracks and sometimes challenging placements, but once you get the style figured out there’s a climb here for everyone. Test your mettle on classic “moderates” like Diesel Driver and Pineapple Thunderpussy, or push yourself on hard lines like Stigmata or The Fugitive.
Rock Type: Gneiss
Favorite Crags: Gallatin Tower, Black Line Buttress, Skyline Buttress, Fish Face, Pineapple Buttress
Classic Routes: Diesel Driver (5.9), Pineapple Thunderpussy (5.9), Black Line (5.10b), Stigmata (5.11d), Sparerib (5.8), Thing in Between (5.9+), First Best (5.10-), Soft in the Middle (5.11c), Tigger (5.10-), Spare Tire (5.10b), Orange Crack (5.11b, 5.9 1st pitch)
Hyalite Canyon
While it’s known for ice climbing, Hyalite is also home to some of the best traditional climbing near Bozeman. It doesn’t have the incredible multi-pitch climbs that Gallatin offers, but contains high quality lines of all grades.
Rock Type: Gneiss
Favorite Crag: Practice Rock
Classic Routes: Wizard’s Well (5.9+), Theoretically (5.10c), Tough Trip Through Paradise (5.11c), Last of the Wild Ones (5.12c)
Rock Type: Gneiss, Limestone
Best Sport Climbing
Pulling hard on Yellowjacket (5.11d)
There is tons of high quality sport climbing within 30 minutes of Bozeman if you know where to look! While there are several smaller sport crags, the three most highly concentrated crags are Allenspur, the Limestone crags in Gallatin Canyon, and Wolverine bowl in the Bridgers.
Allenspur
I love climbing at Allenspur! The environment is awesome, the views are stellar, and the climbs are super fun. There are lots of moderate to very difficult climbs here, some of them being quite long. The access at Allenspur is delicate - please be sure to use one of the dedicated climber’s trails and don’t bring dogs up this approach!
Rock Type: Limestone
Favorite Crags: Main Crag, 7-11 Crag
Classic Routes: Sully’s Route (5.10a), The Prow (5.10c), Bee Yourself (5.11a), Flake Fest (5.10b), Rancho Deluxe (5.11b), Out of the Whole (5.11c)
Gallatin Canyon Limestone
Hanging loose on the fun multi-pitch sport climb Chips (5.9+).
Although Gallatin Canyon’s Gneiss buttresses are where it’s at in my humble opinion, there is fun sport climbing to be had on the limestone cliffs that line the entrance to the canyon. These routes can be fun, hard, and adventurous - the difficulty varies, but some of the hardest climbs in the area can be found in Hantavirus Cave if that’s what you’re looking for!
Rock Type: Limestone
Favorite Crags: Scorched Earth, Hantavirus Cave
Classic Routes: Geriatrix, It’s-It, Endless Summer, Pearl Necklace, Fistful of Steel, Dogleg Arete, Weapons of Mass Destruction
Wolverine Bowl
What a wonderful place Wolverine Bowl is! Set in the Northeastern Bridger Range, Wolverine is an alpine limestone sport climbing paradise. Long, hard routes abound here, all on bomber gray limestone that is the stuff of dreams. This is easily the best sport climbing venue near Bozeman. The approach is a bit long, and the walls get early morning sun - a midmorning start will put you in the shade around 1 pm with a full afternoon and evening of perfect climbing temps. It can get chilly here too, so be prepared!
Rock Type: Limestone
Favorite Crags: Lower Replica, Upper Replica, Bud Wall
Classic Routes: The Beat Connection (5.10c), Hate Street Dialogue (5.11b), Single Synapse Rat Brain (5.11b), Stud Finder (5.12a)
Best Multi-Pitch Climbing
Gallatin Canyon
Grinning ear to ear on the classic Skyline Arete (5.6).
Surprise surprise, Gallatin Canyon makes the list again! Here is where Gallatin really shines - the multi-pitch routes here are absolutely stellar, and for the most part are fairly moderate grades. Almost every single one of the buttress faces contains a stellar multi-pitch climb, with the ability to link several climbs together for a full day of climbing if you want!
Rock Type: Gneiss, Limestone
Favorite Crags: Gallatin Tower, Eastside Buttresses, Scorched Earth
Classic Routes: Skyline Arete (5.6), Sparerib (5.8), Watchtower Standard (5.8), The Waltz (5.8), Silver Foxes (5.10a)
Ross Peak
Following on The Fellowship.
In my opinion Ross Peak holds some of the best rock climbs in the Bozeman area and in all of Montana. These are some of my highest rated climbs I’ve ever done - exposure, stunning setting, high quality rock, and clipping bolts on a 1000ft wall. What more could you ask for?
While these are sport routes, they were all bolted from stances and can be quite run out at times. The bolts are there when you need them, but be on your game for these climbs. Some gear can help supplement these runouts. It’s an alpine environment, so keep an eye out for loose rock, and make sure you dial the descent before heading up.
Rock Type: Limestone
Classic Routes: All of them!
Best Bouldering Areas
The bouldering near Bozeman is a bit more scattered, with quality lines being found in many locations, but not in extreme abundance in any location besides Whiskey Gulch. That being said, the bouldering scene is alive and well and growing quickly around Bozeman. New climbs are being established daily in these and in new locations, and quality lines are to be found everywhere. These two areas are my favorites and have a huge concentration of problems, but check out some of the other areas if you do get a chance!
Whiskey Gulch
Throwing the heel hook on Globetrotter (V3).
While Whiskey Gulch isn’t exactly in the Bozeman area, the climbing here is good enough that I think it’s more than worth listing as the best bouldering area near Bozeman. A huge expansive area with tons of boulders, Whiskey Gulch will scratch your bouldering itch - whether that means highballs, crimps, traverses, you’ll find something here that is stellar climbing. There’s tons of opportunity to continue developing problems here. Depending on snowfall you can climb here year round.
Rock Type: Granite
Classic Problems: Fear of Friction (V0), Adam’s Wall (V3), Osteoporosis (V3), Globe Trotter (V3), Wave Runner (V4), Emphysema Traverse Low (V4+), The Pope’s Penis (V7)
Gallatin Canyon
Working the stunning Enchiridion (V5).
You didn’t think there would be a section without the Gallatin in it, did you? Gallatin provides, my friend. The bouldering here is also stellar, with classic boulders found throughout the canyon. Cascade Creek holds most of and the best of these lines; with the beautiful setting and good rock you’ll find yourself coming back for more and more.
Rock Type: Gneiss
Favorite Crags: Cascade Creek, The Nunnery, Hidden Lakes
Classic Routes: Tick Tick Boom (V3), Leviathan (V4), Fear Factor (V6), Intergalactic Jellyfish (V6), Hymenoptera (AKA the Gargoyle (V6+), The Enchiridion (V5), The Battle of Hoth (V8)
Best Winter Climbing - Madison River Area
You didn’t think there would be any climbing in the frozen tundra of Montana in the winter, did you? While snow does put the kibosh on rock climbing plans for most of the winter, during warm spells you can get out to the Madison River area’s desert like environment and find quality climbing only 25 minutes outside of Bozeman. There is great bouldering and rope climbing here, and on a sunny day in February you’ll be climbing shirtless.
The dogs were not as impressed by Yesteryear (V5) as I was.
Rock Type: Gneiss
Favorite Crags: Bear Trap Road Boulders, Neat Rock Area, Winter Wall
Classic Routes: Balance of Power (5.10b), Sheep Herder (V4), The Fallen (V7 - V8), Garmonbozia (V6), Yesteryear (V5), Standard Route (5.9), Drive-By Shooting (5.10b), In Spite of Ourselves (5.11b)
Bozeman is truly a hidden gem for climbers looking for adventure and quality rock. While Montana may not be the first place that comes to mind when searching for climbing destinations, the Gallatin Canyon is a special place that offers every style of climbing imaginable. In addition to Gallatin, there's lots of climbing that isn't recorded online, so it's worth getting to know the local climbing community and asking around for tips on the best places to climb. With quality rock and minimal crowds, routes around Bozeman can provide exceptional climbing experiences at almost all times of the year. Pack your gear, grab some friends, and join us in exploring the amazing climbing near Bozeman!
About the Author: Daniel Loudenback
Daniel is the founder of Fantasium and an avid outdoorsman. Whether he’s rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, skiing, snowboarding, or mountain biking, you’ll find him outside almost every day of the year - usually with his two dogs, Chance & Aldo in tow!
Bozeman is Daniel’s home base and where he spends most of the year. When he’s not in Bozeman he’s traveling around in his van or hopping on a plane to explore a foreign destination.
Daniel’s life goal (besides being outside of course) is helping people achieve their dreams and build a life that they love to live.
